Bag making puts your sewing machine to the test. Between thick layers, stabilizers, and hardware, it’s easy to run into problems—even if you’ve been sewing for years. These six tips will help you get cleaner stitches, manage bulk, and avoid mistakes so your finished bags look polished and professional.

1. Use the Right Needle

Using the wrong needle can lead to broken needles, skipped stitches, and machine strain. Bag fabrics like canvas, vinyl, and leather need stronger needles.

  • Recommended: Size 90/14 or 100/16 for most bag projects. Use leather needles for real or faux leather.

  • Why it matters: A strong needle penetrates thick layers cleanly, reducing skipped stitches and preventing needle damage.

2. Use a Walking Foot

A walking foot (also called an even-feed foot) moves the top and bottom layers of fabric through the machine at the same time, which prevents shifting.

  • When to use it: Heavy canvas, waterproof canvas, vinyl, or any project with multiple layers.

  • Why it matters: It prevents puckering, keeps seams aligned, and gives your topstitching a clean, professional finish.

3. Adjust Your Stitch Length

Default stitch settings can cause bunching on thicker fabrics. Adjusting your stitch length helps with both construction and finishing details.

  • Recommended: Use a 3–3.5mm stitch length for construction seams. For visible topstitching, increase to 5mm for a more defined look.

  • Industrial machines: Increase by an additional 1mm to compensate for higher speed and heavier feed.

  • Why it matters: Longer stitches are more visible and less likely to perforate thick or coated fabrics. Shorter stitches can weaken materials like vinyl or cork, increasing the risk of tearing under stress.

4. Use the Needle Down Function

If your machine has a needle down setting, turn it on. It keeps the needle in the fabric every time you stop sewing.

  • Best for: Corners, curves, attaching zippers, or working near hardware.

  • Why it matters: It gives you more control, lets you pivot easily, and reduces stitch alignment errors.

5. Practice on Scrap Fabric

Working with a new fabric or technique? Always test first. Use scrap pieces that include any interfacing or stabilizers so you’re replicating the full thickness and texture of your project.

  • When to test: Before topstitching, installing zippers, or adding hardware.

  • Why it matters: Practicing helps you get the stitch length, thread tension, and alignment right before sewing the real thing.

6. Clean and Maintain Your Machine Regularly

Bag making creates more lint and debris than lighter sewing projects. Accumulated dust and thread bits can affect stitch quality and damage your machine over time.

  • How to maintain: Clean around the feed dogs and bobbin area after every few projects. Oil your machine according to your manual, and change needles regularly.

  • Why it matters: A well-maintained machine runs smoother, sews more accurately, and lasts longer—especially when working with heavy materials.

Bonus: Try a Teflon Foot

Vinyl, faux leather, and laminated fabrics can stick to a regular presser foot. A Teflon foot glides over these materials.

  • When to use it: Any time your fabric sticks or drags under the foot.

  • Why it matters: It keeps stitches consistent and prevents wrinkling or skipped stitches on grippy or coated materials.


Takeaway

Bag making doesn’t have to be frustrating. With the right tools and machine settings, you’ll get cleaner results, smoother seams, and fewer problems. Start with these six tips to set yourself up for success on every project.

April 15, 2025